We took a
couple of weeks island hopping from Phuket to Langkawi. Some people do this trip in 24 hours but
that’s just not our style.
Phi Phi was
uncrowded unlike our last visit when we could hardly move on the island during
the day and fell asleep to super loud doof doof music every night. This time the sound track was something so
benign I didn’t even remember what it was in the morning.
Sunk by politics
The next
leg was hard work with 30 knots on the nose on the way to the historic east
coast anchorage at Koh Lanta. I decided
to give the anchoring way point from our last visit a miss. It was being used by a sunken boat. Sunk by politics according to the local intel. The interested parties couldn’t decide who
was supposed to pump the bilge until it was too late.
Old Town, Koh Lanta
The green
prawn curry was just as delicious as I remembered from our first stay. When I
asked the staff if the prawns were farmed or wild he articulately pointed out
to the sea.
Cruisin
It was an
easy run to Koh Muk. At one point I looked out the porthole and saw fish
jumping a meter out of the water. Like
something out of Nemo. The other captain
kept telling me about the dolphins he was seeing. All I got was water disturbances. Hmm.
Inside the Emerald Cave
We visited
the Emerald Cave on the way.
A 70 meter swim through a dark cave to get there. With a waterproof torch that ended up being
allergic to water. On the way back out we realized we had taken a wrong
turn. Had to back up in the pitch
dark. Maybe that was the way to the
fabled pirate treasure. We wouldn’t have
found it with a dead torch anyway.
Unmistakable limestone karst geology of the Andamans
We took our
time slowly heading south down Koh Taratao. Three different overnight anchorages.
A bit of exploring. A bit of
weather. Took the tender up one of the
rivers. Out of the corner of my eye I
thought I saw a dog swimming. It was a
sea otter. The last Thai radio we’ll be
hearing for a while.
Suddenly,
it seemed, we were in Malaysia again.
Royal Langkawi Yacht Club
Langkawi is
a time vortex. Like the Hotel California
you can check out but you can’t leave. We
planned to say a few days but were there for a month.
Anchored in Bass Harbour, Kuah, we were waiting
for some credit cards to arrive in the mail.
And waiting. And partying. And
waiting. And eating. (The Bak kut thewhich is the only dish on the menu
at the Shark Fing is still my benchmark for that delicious pork stew.) And
of course consuming and stocking up on the duty free grog. And catching up with
old friends. And making new ones. And provisioning
for our next leg.
Naturally
the shopping had to include pork espionage.
On a Moslem island they do sell this forbidden product but it requires
being in the know. You have to go into
the back room of a shop selling spices.
Quietly - I thought the proprietor was telling us not to wake the baby –
to choose your cloak and dagger snags.
They were yummy
too. Sausages and mash for dinner at our
first anchorage on the way to Danga Bay.